Life as Landlubbers in San Juan, Puerto Rico (Part 2)

In yesterday’s post, I discussed how life in San Juan, Puerto Rico is similar to life in any other US city. While Puerto Rico is part of the United States, its history and culture make it unique. Here are a few differences we’ve noticed during our stay.

1. Don’t Sweat the Small Stuff

Rob an I joke that Puerto Rico is exactly the same as the US, but without all the rules. In reality US federal law applies to Puerto Rico and most of the local laws are the same as in The States. The only law that I’ve noticed is different is that the legal drinking age is 18 here. But Puerto Rico doesn’t seem to regulate the small stuff the same as we do in the US.

When we first arrived in Florida, I was so excited to take our dogs to the beach for the first time. Even though our apartment was just two blocks from the beach, we had to drive 30 minutes away and pay a $5 parking fee for the pups to enjoy the sand and waves at Fort De Soto Dog Beach. Here in Puerto Rico, dogs are free to enjoy a day at the beach with their owners. You’ll see dozens of dogs romping around in the sand and cooling off in the turquoise water as you walk along Ocean Park and Condado beaches. Some dogs are on leashes, but most aren’t. Even with all of the dogs running about, we’ve never seen a dog fight or stepped in poop. With dog owners being responsible and people using a little common sense, the beach can be fun for both furry four legged and human family members.

Also, you don’t have to disguise your alcoholic beverage in a Nalgene or hide it in a pocket flask. It’s legal to take alcohol to the beach and there are several nearby trash cans so you can toss out the empty Medalla cans. While it’s not exactly legal to carry your drink down the street, you’ll find that most people don’t think twice about grabbing a beer to go. This rule is not enforced and there aren’t any large bouncers demanding you to chug your drink before stepping outside the bar.

We love that everything is more laid back here than in the US, but mostly we love that we don’t always have to leave these two at home when we go out for some fun.

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2. Thank God It’s Thursday

Puerto Ricans party on the weekends and the weekend starts Thursday night. I’m not sure why, but Thursday and Friday nights seem to have the best nightlife. Maybe it’s because people spend Saturday and Sundays on the beach. On Thursday night, La Placita is the place to be. By day, this square is a farmers market, but on Thursday nights it transforms into an open-air party with live music, salsa dancing, and plenty of bars and restaurants to hop between.

3. Hablas Ingles?

Both English and Spanish are the official languages of Puerto Rico; however, Spanish is by far the dominant language. Signs, local radio, music, and advertisements are all in Spanish. Even when you go to the movies, expect to see Spanish subtitles. However, we have found that most people in San Juan speak much better English than we speak Spanish. English is taught in schools here as a second language, so it’s easy to get by as a non-Spanish speaker.

4. Beware of Dog

A lot of homes in Puerto Rico (almost everyone in our neighborhood) are surrounded by large steel fences. The fences are 8 feet tall even in the front yard. Behind many of these fences, you’ll find a dog or two. These pups love guarding their homes which means that they make sure to warn us (very loudly) when we get too close. When we take our pups for a walk, we spend half of our time walking in the street instead of on the sidewalk in order to avoid these barking guard dogs.

5. Plantain is the new Potato

It would be difficult to have an authentic Puerto Rican meal without plantains in some form. Mofongo is probably the most famous dish here and is comprised of mashed green plantains stuffed with stewed meat. Tostones, or fried plantain chips, are the quintessential side dish for any Puerto Rican meal. On the sweeter side, amarillos are yellow plantains that have been fried until the edges turn golden brown. They are also served as a side dish. Mashed, fried, sweet, or savory, the plantain is a staple in Puerto Rico.

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6. The Recession

While the US economy has bounced back since the 2008 Great Recession, Puerto Rico is in its 11th consecutive year of economic depression. For various reasons, the government ran up over $70 billion of debt and Puerto Rico citizens are paying for it. Sales tax was recently increased from 7% to a whopping 11.5%. Electricity costs are expected to rise as much as 26% by early 2017. The cost of living is increasing and people are fleeing the island for main land US, where the unemployment rate is less than half of Puerto Rico’s 12%. To add insult to injury, Puerto Rico’s shining star, the tourism industry, has been greatly affected this year because of the Zika virus.

So what does this all mean? Well, for one thing, you won’t find much new construction in San Juan. In Denver, you can’t turn the corner without seeing large cranes erecting new condo buildings. There are few cranes in San Juan. Even in nice neighborhoods, like Ocean Park, you’ll find abandoned homes next door to beautiful multistory homes. Amazing beach front properties sit vacant and overrun by brush. If you are in the market for some gorgeous, inexpensive beach property, then Puerto Rico might have what you are looking for. It’s certainly a buyer’s market.

Congress recently approved a law known as PROMESA (Puerto Rico Oversight, Management, and Economic Stability Act), which establishes a seven-member board to help stabilize the island’s economy, negotiate with creditors, and develop/oversee a financial plan. This move has been met with both support and opposition, but one thing is sure. Puerto Rico’s economic decline can’t be ignored any longer. Steps must be taken to prevent this breathtaking island from descending into financial ruin.

7. Salsa (No, Not the Kind Served with Chips)

People love to dance in Puerto Rico and they are good at it! You don’t have to venture far in San Juan to find a salsa band playing any night of the week. It’s amazing to watch couples that are skillful in this dance work their magic. Rob and I are not one of those couples, but we enjoy listening to the lively, up-beat music and trying our best.

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8. No Vote

Since Puerto Rico is a territory under the sovereignty of and belonging to the United States, the President of the United States is also the President of Puerto Rico. However, US territories do not have voting representation in Congress. Puerto Rico does participate in the presidential primary process, but come November, Puerto Ricans will only be spectators of the presidential election.

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We’ll spend a total of four months in Puerto Rico. We are taking full advantage of all the US conveniences we have here (especially Amazon Prime). Once we set sail in November, we’ll be leaving all of those conveniences behind again. But what makes Puerto Rico special, in addition to its breathtaking scenery, is its lively, colorful culture. Not only are we getting to explore a new island covered in pristine beaches and a tropical rain forest, but we also get to explore a new culture with a wonderful array of different foods, music, and customs.

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